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Camouflaged weapons

With sonic sensors, though, Womble, it is much easier. Also, the crack gives you somewhere to start looking with your ultra-cool visual/bio-sensors.

If they never hear the shot, it is even harder to know where to point your fancy gizmos. Which gives the sniper time to squeeze off a few more rounds....
 
Off the current subject, but I spotted another camouflaged rifle that is just too cool.

IMG_0258.jpg
 
That's a pretty neat photo.

OK, here's another question; type of cammo for weapons. Would there be a difference between wrapping your weapon in colored rags like a sniper might, and just the regular spray on stuff?
 
Rags. That adds an element of texture to flat color. Also rub it with dirt and add bits of leaves to fit the local environment.

All same as why many snipers wear ghillie suits and veils instead of cammo uniforms and face paint.
 
Well, there should at least be a negative DM if you drop your weapon.


"I know it's around here somewhere."

If you want to be extra mean to your players.
 
Fritz:

I wasn't clear... the supersonic crack originates at the projectile, not the weapon. Unaided, the human ear will have a very hard time localising even the direction form which the shot came. I'm sure an electronic device could do it, but since there are anti-sniper radars which will work whether or not the bullet is noisy, you may as well assume that if the detection-by-sound method is implemented, some other device-based means would be available to pick up silent projectile weapons.

http://xmb.stuffucanuse.com/xmb/viewthread.php?tid=748
(vehicle-mounted at TLearly8...)
 
Very good points, womble.

Of course, the other thing about sound is (for something like a rifle shot) its attention-grabbing ability. If you start at the back of the line and work forward, how many can you drop before they figure it out? (1 if they hear the shot.) Will shooting the guy carrying the sensors give you enough time to take out the primary? (The other guards will pile on top of him if they hear you.) Will it look like a heart attack long enough for you to evade? (Confusion in the crowd v. "Somebody shot the CEO!")

Dad-gum, the folks around here are smart!
 
It should be noted that the supersonic crack can be reflected by nearby objects, confusing the source even more. Maxim (of silencer fame) noted this when firing a supressed 30-06 past a row of telephone poles. There was a distinct sound reflected back by each pole.

Further, there has been some modeling that suggests that different designcould reduce or even eliminate ballistic crack.

Google for "Quiet Supersonic Platform".
 
I have been doing soem models of WW1 German aircraft. Now what strikes me about them is that their paintjobs were often garish and colorful. they are made to dazzle your eyes and make it difficult to focus on your target. Things like 5 color lozenge patterns and stripes of varying thicknesses. I am just cuious as to how effective it is. I recall reading a photographer could nto focus on a Fokker DVIII. (flying razor) because of the multi colored lozenge pattern. I am nto expert on camoflage but it could be interesting to do a study or find out how effective something like that is.
 
Dazzle patterns such as the lozenge are not meant to not be seen so much as to cause range and vector confusion.
There just ain't no hiding something as big as a flying aircraft within 200 yards so use a pattern to cause confusion in direction, velocity, or range.
German cruisers in WWII were painted with a false bow and stern wave to cause visual sighting to mistake their size or range. A 5% size difference at 20,000 yards meant a miss of 1,000 yards.
 
Vegas that is what I am thinking too. But could this not work on a smaller scale too. Personell clothing etc. This might work better at closer ranges. I just though it might be interesting to give some traveller players some garish looking uniforms that are actually decent camoflage. Anyways the lozenge and varied stripe theme is more fun to paint on your 3D model that is what I know. I can only handle so much olive drab.
Here is a site with some well rendered albatross markings. http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Miller/render/Albatros/index.html
Just a thought. I just think it woudl be fiun to use on players as they say WTF? as they are given Multi colored striped uniforms.
 
Dude, have you seen some of the urban camouflage patterns? All jagged edges, grays and blacks and browns. The idea wouldn't work well for nature settings, as the whole idea is to break up any man-made (or man-like) shapes. (One of the reasons for "boonie" hats is that the floppy shape breaks up not only the head outline, but it doesn't look like a "hat", either.) Urban combat, OTOH, would be different....
 
For real world Camo, in general darker greys are better than other colors. (Unless you are on a putting green in the sun.) You look more like part of a shadow. However it is better to have different camo for different environments, (Green in a green field, white in snow.) However remember that you are generally going to be undercover instead of out in the sun, so darker colors generally work better. The important point is to look like something other than a person, so breaking up the outline is at least as important as color. (Probably more so.)
 
Originally posted by Fritz88:
Dude, have you seen some of the urban camouflage patterns? All jagged edges, grays and blacks and browns. The idea wouldn't work well for nature settings, as the whole idea is to break up any man-made (or man-like) shapes. (One of the reasons for "boonie" hats is that the floppy shape breaks up not only the head outline, but it doesn't look like a "hat", either.) Urban combat, OTOH, would be different....
Actually simple Tiger Stripes, of varying distance between them and varying thickness, tend to work better than complex shapes. Remember the eyes are going to see what you expect to see. If the shapes get complicated then the brain melds it together and you see a man.
The KISS principal does apply to good camoflague.
 
Light colord, in shadow, look dark. Dark colors in sunlight looks like a giant, black spot.

About the best stuff out there right now is the green/tan/dark gray Multicam. The U.S.M.C. MARPAT and U.s. Army's ACU patterns are almost as good.

At over 200m the Army's olive green from the 1960s works as well as anything. At that renge, in any camo, if you move you're spotted, if you lie still, you aren't.
 
Light colord, in shadow, look dark. Dark colors in sunlight looks like a giant, black spot.

About the best stuff out there right now is the green/tan/dark gray Multicam. The U.S.M.C. MARPAT and U.s. Army's ACU patterns are almost as good.

At over 200m the Army's olive green from the 1960s works as well as anything. At that renge, in any camo, if you move you're spotted, if you lie still, you aren't.
 
Light colord, in shadow, look dark. Dark colors in sunlight looks like a giant, black spot.

About the best stuff out there right now is the green/tan/dark gray Multicam. The U.S.M.C. MARPAT and U.s. Army's ACU patterns are almost as good.

At over 200m the Army's olive green from the 1960s works as well as anything. At that renge, in any camo, if you move you're spotted, if you lie still, you aren't.
 
Light colors, in shadow, look dark. Dark colors in sunlight looks like a giant, black spot. Like a bullseye.

About the best general purpose stuff out there right now is the green/tan/dark gray Multicam.
The U.S.M.C. MARPAT and U.S. Army's ACU ARMPAT patterns are almost as good.

Of course, there are patterns that blend well in particular locales, but look wierd anywhere else. Like the Swiss summer alpenflage.

At over 200m the Army's olive green from the 1960s works as well as anything. At that renge, in any camo, if you move you're spotted, if you lie still, you aren't.
 
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