So, we've been mostly using Star Wars miniatures for our Traveller games but I grew tired of seeing the same old minis proxied in for various NPCs and creatures so I bought some Warhammer plastic minis. These look like they'll be great fun to put together and paint but I've never assembled plastic minis before and I'm unsure of what kind of glue I should use. Any tips?
Glue for plastic miniatures?
- Thread starter LMB
- Start date
Evil Steve
SOC-10
There are various glues for plastic models. Testors and Tamiya are two brands. Any decent hobby store will have them, such as where you bought the models.
Things to know...
The glue actually melts the plastic slightly, then you press the two parts together, hold for a moment while it "welds" them together. During that brief period, the joint is flexible. This is _really_ useful for getting a model to hold a two handed weapon.
Too much glue will cause distortions in the plastic. I have a model T ford with my thumbprint on the hood caused by glue on the underside of the hood.
Don't apply the glue directly from the container. Squeeze a little on to a metal bottle cap, and apply it with a toothpick. This will give you better control.
Any other questions, just PM me.
PS-If you bought those models at a Games Workshop, they can help you with assembling them.
Things to know...
The glue actually melts the plastic slightly, then you press the two parts together, hold for a moment while it "welds" them together. During that brief period, the joint is flexible. This is _really_ useful for getting a model to hold a two handed weapon.
Too much glue will cause distortions in the plastic. I have a model T ford with my thumbprint on the hood caused by glue on the underside of the hood.
Don't apply the glue directly from the container. Squeeze a little on to a metal bottle cap, and apply it with a toothpick. This will give you better control.
Any other questions, just PM me.
PS-If you bought those models at a Games Workshop, they can help you with assembling them.
Those warhammer minis are probably what is called "resin" (mostly uerethanes), not the typical model plastic (Polystryrene).
Even for plastics, I've found gap-filling cyanoacrilates ("superglues") far better than Testor's offerings. Same caveats apply to method of application.
Also note: parts pre-painted with acrylics bond nicely using cyanoacrilate glues.
I've not worked with the eurethanes, but note that they typically are more brittle than the polystyrene commonly used in modelmaking (and previously used for plastic minifigs).
Then again, most of my gaming minis are 20mm samurai.
Even for plastics, I've found gap-filling cyanoacrilates ("superglues") far better than Testor's offerings. Same caveats apply to method of application.
Also note: parts pre-painted with acrylics bond nicely using cyanoacrilate glues.
I've not worked with the eurethanes, but note that they typically are more brittle than the polystyrene commonly used in modelmaking (and previously used for plastic minifigs).
Then again, most of my gaming minis are 20mm samurai.
I believe they are polystyrene, they aren't resin. They are Citadel brand (which I believe is a subsidiary of Games Workshop).
I like the part about the "decent hobby store". I honestly don't know how the place I got them from stays in business, but that's another story.
I'm familiar enough with the glue that melts the plastic so I'll give that a try and if I don't get good results I'll try super glue.
Thanks for the replies!
Is there any interest in seeing painted minis on this board? Not that I'm a great painter or anything, but back in the day I did a decent enough job. It would also give me a chance to ask what others think the stats should be for my new beasties.
I like the part about the "decent hobby store". I honestly don't know how the place I got them from stays in business, but that's another story.
I'm familiar enough with the glue that melts the plastic so I'll give that a try and if I don't get good results I'll try super glue.
Thanks for the replies!
Is there any interest in seeing painted minis on this board? Not that I'm a great painter or anything, but back in the day I did a decent enough job. It would also give me a chance to ask what others think the stats should be for my new beasties.
I never had success...
But I know people those figures with a 'hot knife'. Essentially an x-acto knife blade on the end of a soldering iron.
More work, but it allows customization well beyond just gluing them.
The learning curve is pretty steep, and I never got any usable results, so I gave up, but others have gotten some amazing results.
Of course I don't have the talent to paint minis either, so people who have the fine motor skills to paint might find a hot knife a usable tool.
But I know people those figures with a 'hot knife'. Essentially an x-acto knife blade on the end of a soldering iron.
More work, but it allows customization well beyond just gluing them.
The learning curve is pretty steep, and I never got any usable results, so I gave up, but others have gotten some amazing results.
Of course I don't have the talent to paint minis either, so people who have the fine motor skills to paint might find a hot knife a usable tool.
Glue for models
Greetings !
As a model maker for 20 years, I would reccomend the use of hobby grade super glues. Buy the gap-filling formula. I would not use what are called "zip -kickers" to speed up the glue drying time. They have tendency to "etch" styrene plastic. It will not hurt resin kits.
As for locating a hobby shop, pick up a copy of Finescale Modeler, or go online. You will find many mail order hobby shops to choose from.
Greetings !
As a model maker for 20 years, I would reccomend the use of hobby grade super glues. Buy the gap-filling formula. I would not use what are called "zip -kickers" to speed up the glue drying time. They have tendency to "etch" styrene plastic. It will not hurt resin kits.
As for locating a hobby shop, pick up a copy of Finescale Modeler, or go online. You will find many mail order hobby shops to choose from.
Last edited:
The Hinterworlds Rambler
SOC-14 5K
Products that used to be called "microweld" or "Scaleweld" depending on what part of the world you are from, along with the liquid testors cement with the brush in the bottle, all use a slight variant on Methalyene Chloride, which will "weld" together acylics, polystyrene (lego or plastic Warhammer guys) in a snap, as well as most ABS types of plastics. Plastruct sells the stuff in a paint thinner sized can, which will last a LONG time, as long as you keep it sealed up tight.
This stuff is TOXIC. The fumes are toxic. Drinking it will kill you. Use plenty of ventilation, especially with acrylics, plexiglas, etc. and DONT drink over crushed ice. Plastic supply houses will sell it in plain brown bottles with a black cap, along with a syringe to apply it, and it works best by capillary action along seams. Letting it bead up on a flat piece of styrene will cause the styrene to warp, melt, and may eat right thru it, so it can also be used for "distressing" ships.
The other thing to watch out for is that it evaporates QUICK! Leave the top off a small bottle of testors, and next morning, you got an empty bottle, and maybe a headache.
For my buck, the best Cyanoacrylate out there is ZapaGap CA+ in the green bottle, and for heavy duty stuff Devcon 2 ton epoxy. Micromark in NJ is the best source of all that stuff, and they have awesome customer service!
This stuff is TOXIC. The fumes are toxic. Drinking it will kill you. Use plenty of ventilation, especially with acrylics, plexiglas, etc. and DONT drink over crushed ice. Plastic supply houses will sell it in plain brown bottles with a black cap, along with a syringe to apply it, and it works best by capillary action along seams. Letting it bead up on a flat piece of styrene will cause the styrene to warp, melt, and may eat right thru it, so it can also be used for "distressing" ships.
The other thing to watch out for is that it evaporates QUICK! Leave the top off a small bottle of testors, and next morning, you got an empty bottle, and maybe a headache.
For my buck, the best Cyanoacrylate out there is ZapaGap CA+ in the green bottle, and for heavy duty stuff Devcon 2 ton epoxy. Micromark in NJ is the best source of all that stuff, and they have awesome customer service!
Evil Steve
SOC-10
Regarding superglues....
There's a reason why they bond skin so well, they were designed to. That stuff will bond you to anything you own, including yourself. (or your desk, paintbrush, face or car...so much bleeding).
Why it does this is important. It reacts with water to "harden". Its a chemical reaction.
Elmer's glue/school glue/white glue/PVA glue are made of some sticky material and.....you guessed it, water.
A thin smear of white glue on one side of a gap, super glue on the other; press them together and you have an almost instant bond with a little gap filling. Great for less than perfect joints on metal at resin models.
PS-I'm not kidding about gluing myself to my car.
There's a reason why they bond skin so well, they were designed to. That stuff will bond you to anything you own, including yourself. (or your desk, paintbrush, face or car...so much bleeding).
Why it does this is important. It reacts with water to "harden". Its a chemical reaction.
Elmer's glue/school glue/white glue/PVA glue are made of some sticky material and.....you guessed it, water.
A thin smear of white glue on one side of a gap, super glue on the other; press them together and you have an almost instant bond with a little gap filling. Great for less than perfect joints on metal at resin models.
PS-I'm not kidding about gluing myself to my car.
Thanks go to the US ARMY ARP Medical wing! CA glues were originally intended for closing bullet (and bayonet) wounds.
CA superglues work wonderfully at bonding acrylic-painted models I painted my space marines THEN glued them. The acrylic paints bonded better than the CA glues to the metal minis... then, CA glue the painted joints together.
