Note 15mm figures are based on what visually worked with 1/100th scale Sighting Models. And in general the 15mm being referenced is from the base of the foot to the eye level of the figure.
Type-S schematics
- Thread starter Blue Ghost
- Start date
Note 15mm figures are based on what visually worked with 1/100th scale Sighting Models. And in general the 15mm being referenced is from the base of the foot to the eye level of the figure.
Now I'll have to dig out my (overly large) Lego collection & start building as well! Darn you!
(although I did try & do that with my last game - started setting up the prisoner part of the prison ship as there would be combat. Hours later of just searching through 2 large tubs of Lego parts made me realize I really need to organize all that somehow)
Damn You!
Now you have me pondering my Lego as 15mm terrain/deckplan idea again. A single block is 8mm square, thus a 2x2 lug flat tile is 16mm square, perfect for use with 15mm figures.I can't open the DWG files, do you have a render of them?
You have heard of http://bricklink.com I hope, that might be a way to source your parts if they aren't available from LEGO directly.
Frank
Cool, so your plan is to stretch things so the walls don't take up space in the 1.5m squares? Which will result in some distortion of the plan, but probably necessary when using a thick material for the walls.
Frank
kilemall
SOC-14 5K
Hmm, on the cardboard front, there are quite a few fairly elaborate wet ship models based on paper out there with enough good looks to be less then a full model, but more then adequate for RPG. Perhaps that's how we can commercialize our fave ships.
Most of them are in the 1:250 or so range, depending on the ship that works out to 1.5-3 feet.
Here is a quick example of how relatively good and cheap this medium can be- Yamato at 1:250 for $36!
http://www.digitalnavy.com/models.html
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/paper-model-kit
And of course we don't have to have even this level of fidelity. We would probably more need furniture/tech forms, likely better a Shapeways thing.
Even 15mm would probably be too big at this scale, more 6-10 mm. Bigger scales would of course limit the range of ships to render.
Most of them are in the 1:250 or so range, depending on the ship that works out to 1.5-3 feet.
Here is a quick example of how relatively good and cheap this medium can be- Yamato at 1:250 for $36!
http://www.digitalnavy.com/models.html
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/paper-model-kit
And of course we don't have to have even this level of fidelity. We would probably more need furniture/tech forms, likely better a Shapeways thing.
Even 15mm would probably be too big at this scale, more 6-10 mm. Bigger scales would of course limit the range of ships to render.
Yes, by keeping the construction to using basic bricks, at 1:48 scale, my interior walls are 384mm wide (about 15 inches). There are four walls in the interior space which conveniently adds 1.5 meters of "space" making my interior 18 meters at the widest point instead of 16.5 meters as is typical on the conventional deck plan.
Now some might think that 15 inches is thick for a wall, but I explain to players in my games that the compact design of the Type S necessitates packing the walls with conduits, control stations, ducting, and devices.
Also, by using the standard Lego Minifig scale of 1:48, I can throw in Hasbro's line of Playskool Star Wars figures (which I have used in many Alternity/Traveler games when I use a 1.5 inch square grid).
I get most of my bricks from the Lego Store and the Pick a Brick shop. Today I am ordering about 30 dollars of grey and tan bricks to replace the test build walls with uniform color bricks, and then I will start work on the staterooms.
I intend to build the aft/engine and medical bay last.
GAH
Why do I keep getting sucked into the Type S design. After trying to reduce the rear compartment, and reduce the overall space the deck plan I am building to less than 60 dtons (actually trying to get it down to less than 50 dtons, so that there is 12.5 tons available as a lower deck with the rest of the drive and PP components), and I start looking at the rest of the space available in the tapered hull and I cannot find 40 dtons of space sufficient for the fuel tanks!
I am going to go back to my Rev 01 design which does not have the severe tapered hull angles, but still keeps the overall shape we are used to seeing.
What I want - 60 dtons of deck plans which shows
16 dtons of engineering space
40 dtons of other space (bridge, quarters, medical bay, a/r bay)
4 dtons for a turret access and attic stores
Why do I keep getting sucked into the Type S design. After trying to reduce the rear compartment, and reduce the overall space the deck plan I am building to less than 60 dtons (actually trying to get it down to less than 50 dtons, so that there is 12.5 tons available as a lower deck with the rest of the drive and PP components), and I start looking at the rest of the space available in the tapered hull and I cannot find 40 dtons of space sufficient for the fuel tanks!
I am going to go back to my Rev 01 design which does not have the severe tapered hull angles, but still keeps the overall shape we are used to seeing.
What I want - 60 dtons of deck plans which shows
16 dtons of engineering space
40 dtons of other space (bridge, quarters, medical bay, a/r bay)
4 dtons for a turret access and attic stores
Those ships are gorgeous. I daresay those models are not for the feint of heart either. I imagine they're quite difficult.
kilemall
SOC-14 5K
Indeed, but for our purposes we only need simpler shapes, a lot of room dividers, possibly pull out floors, and represented equipment printed on the floor. Given what some of those kits are going for, we should be able to do ours more affordably then we thought possible.
If I wanted a realistic gray metallic finish, how would I go about painting the model?
Note, I'm not there yet, but am curious all the same.
Note, I'm not there yet, but am curious all the same.
Why Metallic?
Mix gray and silver... The also make Metallic gray paint as well, but it tends to be gloss.
The metallic paints always have that micro glittery stuff in it.
Yes frequently mica or the like.
Color and finish are separate. You can always lay down a clear flat topcoat if you want.
Main Deck Complete
Here is the main deck, completed and waiting on walls
Main Deck Lego Build
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5iemtl1r8v277w2/MainDeck_TypeSL.jpg?dl=0
Here is the main deck, completed and waiting on walls
Main Deck Lego Build
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5iemtl1r8v277w2/MainDeck_TypeSL.jpg?dl=0
Last edited:
Gray Lensman
SOC-13
Gray Lensman
SOC-13
I didn't think about that. DOH! I seem to be having one of those sometimers days. Yes you would have to join the group.
Similar threads
