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The Traveller Art Thread - Art Only

"What would you recommend using Andrew?"

Depends. If this is something you really enjoy doing, it's definitely worth getting a proper 3d application. Which one depends on how much you want to spend. Serious apps like Lightwave are pricey, but you can get good results from free ones like Blender. *I* would choose Cinema 4D, because it's the one I use, but only you can decide what you're most comfortable using. Demo versions are avaailable, if you want to try them. I'll post some links.
 
OK well I have blender and anim8or, I guess its just a matter of learning how to use them. I plan to get Bryce 5.5 and poser 6 sometime in the near future what are your opinions of these programs?
 
I used to use Bryce (v3 IIRC). It does what it's designed for (landscapes and outdoor scenes) very well, but it has very basic modelling tools. It also has a very distinctive style; you can always tell when a picture was made with it (although newer versions are better).

I use Poser 4 sometimes. Again, it's designed for a single job. Unless you really need the extra features I'd stick with DAZ Studio (which does the same thing), although P6 renders are much nicer.
 
3D Applications (in no particular order, prices may vary)

General

Lightwave $795 http://www.newtek.com/
3DS MAX $3495 http://www.autodesk.com/3dsmax
Maya $1999 http://www.alias.com/eng/index.shtml
Cinema 4D $695+ http://www.maxon.net/
Strata 3D $99 http://www.strata.com/default.asp
TrueSpace $199+ http://www.caligari.com/
Blender $FREE http://www.blender3d.com/
Rhino $895 http://www.rhino3d.com/
Anim8or $FREE http://www.anim8or.com/
Shade $199+ http://www.e-frontier.com/

Specialist

Poser $250 http://www.e-frontier.com/
DAZ Studio $FREE http://www.daz3d.com
Bryce $60+ http://www.daz3d.com
Vue $212 http://www.e-frontier.com/
Terragen $FREE http://www.planetside.co.uk/terragen/
 
Thanks for all the help Andrew I'll check these out. What I like most about DAZ is its simplicity. I dont have alot of time to devote to 3D rendering, between RPG's, family and work I have very little time or money to do anything. DAZ is so simple to use and all of the preset poses, morphs, lighting, etc. make it very fast and simple to make some really cool art. Oh and did I mention there is free .obj content all over the internet. I've played with a couple programs where you can make you own 3D objects but I'm afraid I'll never be very good at it. :(
Anyway thanks for all the feedback, hope to be back with some good art soon.
 
Bryce 5 can import textures so you are not limited to the ones in the program. It can also import several file formats including obj which Poser can export as.
 
Hi !

Some food for this art only thread


This ship looks like ...?

BB11.a.jpg


Well, before I can start some detail work, I'll have to make up my mind about the rough interior design.
Right now I have no real impression about the real size of this thing, the number of decks etc...
Its just a start


Regards,

Mert
 
Here's one of my ships.

Reuben James

I envision it as an Incerceptor Frigate. Crew of about 40. One main turret and half a dozen auxiliary weapons. Starboard boom allows for launching of fighters/support craft. Don't have Traveller stats for it at this time, but it's mainly built for speed.
 
Originally posted by Sigg Oddra:
Here's some sample art from the GT:Interstellar Wars game, look for the links down the left hand side.

And here's a link to the TCS Indomitable, by Jesse DeGraff.
Bugger! I'm really dissapointed. It's been a while since we've seen anything from Jesse and I was expecting to be blown away by this new stuff. Sadly not. His modelling and texture maps are as good as ever but the surface materials and lighting are virtually non-existant, making the models look small and plasticky and the images flat and stayed. Shame.

As a design, I do like the front end of the 'Indomitable', though.

Crow
 
Hi !

Ok, it looks like an ugly ruff head of a dog.
Good luck the ship was designed for killing and not for charming

Thanks Anthony for the stats. The lenght help to get an impression. I will have to find a proper way to give a hint on its actual size in the rendering.

Well, my problem with most of the CG models is texturing. They mostly look clean, perfect, polished but as such totally unrealistic. Just like a colorful illustration...

So I asked in another post, how a realtistic surface of an military spaceship might look like.
Looking at real world constructions (aircraft), surfaces are mostly smooth and panel edges are hard to identify.

Now, heres amother version, surface should appear less panelized..

b11b.jpg


Regards,

Mert
 
Looks more like a shark to me (especially with the sunburst "eye"). The second one is better, but the "tower" needs work - it's too rounded.
 
Originally posted by TheEngineer:
Well, my problem with most of the CG models is texturing. They mostly look clean, perfect, polished but as such totally unrealistic. Just like a colorful illustration...
Right then, first of all, Saturation. Desaturate all colours by about 60%. All colours should be washed-out and greyed. Take for example, the black and yellow stripes on the model. The yellow is too acidic. It looks like a plastic toy. What you are replicating here is the decolourisation that dense air will give to larger objects. Granted, your brain knows that there is no air in space but your eye doesn't care.
Scale. Regardless of what measurement unit you are using, remember that you are NOT making a life-sized model, you are making a scale model, with details eschewed wherever possible - unless, of course you plan on modelling every single nut, bolt, rivet and switch. In which case you'll be there for the rest of your days. Treat your models like actual scale models, calculating pixels-per-inch. Many people use tiny tiny bump maps for their models which give horrible, plasticky-looking blurred panel lines, several inches wide. The larger the bitmap, the finer the panel line. I use enormous bump maps for panel lines. Several thousand pixels square - and that's just for parts of the model, not the whole thing. Even then, you still can't get too close to it without giving the game away.
Subtlety. On a ship the size of this, viewed in it's entirety, hull plating should have no discernable depth whatsoever. Only major structural elements should have any kind of depth to them. Hull plating should be a subtle surface effect and nothing more. Make each panel very very slightly different grades of colour, hue, specularity and glossiness, so that on the whole, they look pretty much the same, but very occaisionally, when a light moves over the surface, it is possible to see that there are subtle variations.
Intent. Panel lines have no reason to be random. Look at the Enterprise A and D hulls. The panels are arranged in a sort of aztec pattern. The effect is barely noticeable but it's there. The panels look like they are placed for a reason. It shows intent on the part of the shipyard architect. This said, randomness can give a nice suggestion of battered age and useage on older vessels - ala Millenium Falcon.
Real World Behaviour. There's more to materials than just slapping on bitmaps and bump maps. Too many 3D spaceships have hulls that look like plastic, because the artist hasn't gone anywhere near the other surface settings. Specularity, Falloff, Glossiness, Ambient, Diffuse etc etc etc. Play with settings and find something that looks like rusty metal, or painted metal, or chrome, or rubber, or dirty matt etc etc etc... Sometimes you can get away with asigning, 'noise' proceedures - I often find that using bitmaps of natural surfaces such as dirt and rust will give more convincing, eye-fooling results.
And finally, Lighting. I'm going to say this until I'm blue in the face. You can have the most fantastic surface materials outside of ILM but if it lookslike it's lit by a desklamp, who's ever goign to be able to tell.

...and I'm spent. Any questions?
 
As an alternative to grey panels try a dark brown series of shades for the bulk of the hull. Though perhaps not realistic it would give the impression of an old hard worn vessel. The dark grey stripes could stay but the contrast with the areas either side would probably look better somewhat reduced.

For the yellow bit around the spinal mount perhaps a dull bronze or copper colour?

All in all though a nice job so far.
 
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